Last week, I mentioned that we had just returned from a trip to Scotland and shared some photos of the beauty I saw there. If you haven’t seen that post, check it out here.
This week, I want to show you what we saw during our walking tour of Edinburgh. There are so many photos from our trip, as you can probably imagine, that I had to be very selective with what I put in the blog posts because of space. But I will be sharing more photos here on the blog and on Facebook and instagram over the next couple of weeks.
But first, a few words about practical matters that you might find helpful.
Packing. Overall I’m pleased with how I packed. I tend to pack sensibly for a trip and then right before leaving, I throw in extra things “just in case” until my luggage is stuffed with more than I can ever wear. On this trip, nothing was unnecessary. We limited ourselves to one small roller bag and duffel bag each, plus my tote and his backpack. We had room leftover in each bag, on purpose.
Because when we left Scotland, every corner of every bag was stuffed. At the Edinburgh airport, we checked the two roller bags and carried on the rest. But by carry, I really mean lug. Or even drag. And then, in the JFK airport, by the time we had walked from one end to the other for our flight home, my arms were longer than they had been when we started.
Shopping. One of the best things about traveling is being able to take home part of that experience with you. Hence, shopping. In addition to all the shops in Edinburgh, every historic site we went to in the country had an attached gift shop and café, which I was always glad to see. Still, I limited my shopping to very small items, such as postcards, journals, bookmarks, and a few books (all of which a reader and writer such as I need!). I also bought a small tartan crossbody bag made by Harris Tweed. Although I was pleased with the new rain jacket I’d brought and the layers I’d packed, I still had to buy a scarf, gloves, and a hat to stay warm in the damp and windy weather, especially in the country and beside the lochs (lakes). The chilly winds off Loch Ness nearly knocked me over.
Food and drink. In Edinburgh, we didn’t spend a lot of time or money searching out the perfect place to eat, preferring to use our resources elsewhere. We had a full Scottish breakfast buffet and nice dinner at our hotel and quick meals at neighborhood eateries. Scotland is known for its whiskey, which is easy to find. Coffee houses are plentiful, too, as are tea and scones, which is what I wanted most anyway.
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With an afternoon arrival into Edinburgh, our first stop was the Scotsman Hotel, the original building that housed the famous national newspaper. It has been recently updated, and we loved our room and view. After lunch and a long nap, we explored the area around our hotel before an early dinner and bedtime.
To me, our trip to Scotland officially started the next morning: with two very full days in Edinburgh, one with a guide who took us to many major spots and the next day on our own. My first and lasting impression of Edinburgh is of course that it is steeped in history, and we had a long list of historic sites to see.
Edinburgh Castle
Early the next morning, our walking-tour guide introduced us to the highlights of Old Town as we made our way down the famous Royal Mile, a series of streets leading from Castlehill, where Edinburgh Castle stands guard over the city, to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official royal residence in Scotland.
At Edinburgh Castle, we learned much about the history of Scotland, life in the castle prison, and the stories of some of its inhabitants through the centuries. The views from the castle looking out over the city were stunning.
Greyfriars Bobby
Jim, our guide, took us to Greyfriars Kirkyard (churchyard) and told us the story of Greyfriars Bobby, (a rescued Skye Terrier who was so devoted to his master that when the master died, Bobby continued to visit his grave every day until he himself died fourteen years later. (This kind of devotion is why I am a dog-lover.)
We also walked through the churchyard and learned more about who is buried there, including the poor guy who has been dubbed Scotland’s worst poet.
St. Giles Cathedral
Before I tell you about St. Giles, let me tell you about the queen. Ten days before we arrived in Edinburgh, we heard that the Queen had passed away in Scotland at Balmoral Castle, her summer residence there. Her love of Scotland was legendary.
During those ten days, her coffin was driven from Balmoral to the Palace at Holyroodhouse, the official royal residence in Scotland. The next day, the coffin was taken in a procession from the palace up the Royal Mile to St. Giles Cathedral, a medieval parish church of the Church of Scotland. There, a Service of Thanksgiving for her life was held before her body was flown to London for the funeral itself.
Despite the world’s spotlight shining on Scotland just a few days before, the enormous crowds that flooded Edinburgh during that time had mostly gone home by the time we arrived. Plenty of tourists like us still kept the town busy, but it was not overflowing with the crowds that had been there to honor the queen.
St. Giles Cathedral played a huge role in honoring the life and death of Queen Elizabeth 2. But it was important to my husband for a different reason. Years ago, before we met, Mart sang his way through Scotland and England on a church choir tour. The choir’s first stop was Edinburgh, where they performed at St. Giles.
Founded in 1124, St. Giles Cathedral’s most famous minister was John Knox, a leader of Scotland’s Reformation and the founder of Presbyterianism. The reformation happened despite the then-current reign of the Catholic Mary, Queen of Scots.
Differences in religious beliefs and political views, which contributed to ongoing conflicts over the Scottish throne, has led to many of the country’s famous battles through the centuries.
But on this day in the church, it was quiet and peaceful as Mart showed me where he stood when his choir performed there 20 years ago. There are many sites to see in the cathedral, including Thistle Chapel, but we kept moving to our next stop.
Next week, part 2 of Walking Through Edinburgh.
More posts and photos of Scotland to follow! Be sure to subscribe by clicking the green button below so you don’t miss anything!
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Here at Glimsen, I share glimpses of the beauty around us in nature, the arts, and the unexpected. If you like what you see, click the green button below to receive my posts and updates by email, and you'll also get a free gift of beauty in your inbox (see below). I look forward to connecting with you!